Essential Team Toolkit

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Essential Team Toolkit
     The sites provided here are just examples of what you can buy. It’s a good idea to look at a
couple of different hardware stores if possible to compare prices. If possible, avoid buying very cheap items. These might not be manufactured as well, and can cost you later on if the sizes are inaccurate or the tool breaks during use. Better to buy a more expensive tool that is reliable and will last for years.
     Stick with U.S. Customary Units (inches, feet). It might seem silly, but check that you aren’tbuying metric items (tools, bolts, nuts, etc.). Never use metric tools while working withcustomary unit parts or vice versa; you can ruin nuts and bolts if the tool used on them is not aperfect fit.
     It’s a good idea to buy a couple of extra 7-1/16” wrenches and nut drivers, and extra ¼” drill bitsand the like. You’ll find that the most common fastening device you use is a ¼-20 bolt, so it’sgood to have a few tools that correspond to this size on hand.

  1. Combination wrench/ratchet- Our team hasn’t tried these, but it seems that you can avoid purchasing a ratcheting kit this way
  2. Standard combination wrench set- I would advise buying two or three of whichever wrench set you choose. Wrenches are helpful when working with things that are inconvenient to access or are difficult to loosen/tighten (as you have more torque at your disposal with a wrench)
  3. Socket Wrench Set- Informally known as a ratchet set. Try to buy a kit with an extender (a long bar that fits into the socket wrench itself and whatever bit you choose), and an additional nut driver-esque handle (called a spinner handle). There are short and deep sockets
  4. Crescent Wrench- Adjustable, good for getting a grip in awkward spots
  5. Nut Drivers- As with the wrenches, I’d buy two sets of these
  6. Diagonal Pliers- For cutting and trimming; I’ve seen 8” and 6” handles but I don’t see much of a difference
  7. Tongue and Groove Pliers- Adjustable pliers
  8. Slip Joint Pliers- Adjustable pliers
  9. Long Nose Pliers- Informally needlenose pliers. Invest in both the large and small pair
  10. Lineman’s Pliers- Also for cutting and grabbing
  11. Locking Pliers- Adjustable, and like the name suggests, they hold their position when you grip them. They have a few different sizes (5”, 7” 10”) and it would be good to get a small and large pair, and a long nose. Also known as vise grips;jsessionid=OZCGPG...
  12. Wire Cutter/Crimper- I’d recommend getting the style shown here, which has wire cutters, strippers, and crimpers all in one tool
  13. Hex Keys- Also known as Allen keys, Allen wrenches, hex head, etc. Get a large and a small folding set (large and small referring to the size of the keys)
  14. Ball Peen Hammer- You rarely, if ever, use nails in robot construction, so a ball peen hammer is a better bet than a claw hammer (the one with the forked end). The hemisphere half can be used to make a hole smaller
  15. Mallet- Unlike a hammer, a mallet deforms when you strike an object. Good for knocking things into place
  16. Flex Steel Rule- A 12” rule should be fine
  17. Tape Measure- A handy measuring tool
  18. Dial Caliper- For very accurate measurements, a dial caliper can be used to both measure and mark pieces using the sharp jaws
  19. Scriber- Not necessary, but it’s helpful for marking metal
  20. Phillips Screwdriver- Has a plus-sign like point. Our team has a small, medium, and large (stubby, #1, #2)
  21. Flathead Screwdriver- Has a wedge point. We also have a small, medium, and large (you might be best off buying a set of Phillips and flathead screwdrivers)
  22. Files- This is a good guide to files, the basic levels of coarseness are rough, bastard/second-cut, and smooth. There are half round files and flat files
  23. Deburring Tool- For removing burrs and cleaning holes. A countersink deburrer is used for holes, while one with a swivel blade can be used for holes and edges (swivel blade) (countersink)
  24. Tin Snips- Good for cutting through sheet metal and trimming things
  25. Digital Multimeter- Testing the voltage of certain things (like batteries) and the continuity of wires. This is the model we use
  26. T-Handle Reamer- For making holes smoother and larger
  27. Center Punch- Center punching a piece of metal helps to guide a drill bit into the exact spot where you want a hole. It’s important to try and do this before drilling any piece of metal
  28. Bench Vise- Holds materials while you drill into them, file them, etc. Really useful and important to have; the best ones bolt onto a table, but a portable one works fine
  29. Adjustable C-Clamp- For holding things together, to a work surface, or in place. I’d get two or three of these (this is a six pack)
  30. Soldering Iron- Solder provides both a physical and electrical connection for wires, and it’s a necessary tool for wiring certain motors
  31. Two-speed Drill- One of the most useful power tools around. Bosch drills are pretty reliable. Cordless drills are more convenient for most jobs, but they require buying batteries and battery chargers
  32. Drill Bits- For your first build season, two packs of common drill sizes like these should suffice Or, you couldgo for a complete set
  33. Jig Saw- Cuts through metal
  34. Dremel + Dremel Kit- A great multi-purpose tool for cutting, sanding, drilling, etc. (there are a couple of dremel accessory kits, your choice on the kind of attachments you want)
  35. Chain Puller- You’ll likely be using chain to transfer power from your motors to your wheels, and this is one of the tools you need to work with chain
  36. Chain Breaker- The other main tool you need to work with chain
  37. Hacksaw- With some effort, you can cut through nearly every kind of metal. For things like this (jig saw, dremel, other cutting tools, reciprocating saw), it might be good to buy a replacement blade or two
  38. Reciprocating Saw- Informally known as the “sawzall” because it can cut through most anything, this is a great tool to have both in your lab and at competition
  39. Angle Grinder- Another heavy-duty cutter like the reciprocating saw, this cuts through steel easily, which is good when outfitting your robot with axels (wear gloves with this)
  40. Sawhorse- It’s good to have two of these around, that way, you can test out your robot’s drivetrain safely by elevating the chassis off of the ground. If it’s too much to spend, a couple of wooden planks also work
  41. Goggles- The ones you have in your chemistry lab should be fine. Just be sure that you have pairs that you can take with you to competition, as you are required to have your own goggles in the pits.
  42. Masking tape, electrical tape, duct tape
  43. Though the Kit of Parts varies from season to season, many of the things you’ll find in this list will be present in the 2009 kit
  44. Tap/Die Set- Taps are used to make threads on the inside of a hole, while dies are used to put threads onto a rod or axel
  45. Tap Ease- When using a tap or a die, it’s important to lubricate the piece you’re cutting
  46. Combination Square- Good for measuring and checking if edges you’ve cut are square
  47. Pry Bar- A handy tool to have around the lab for removing parts that just won’t come out
  48. Pop Riveter- Permanently fastens thin pieces of metal to each other (you need to buy some blind rivets)